"Mycor" - "rhiza" literally means "fungus" - "root" and defines the mutually beneficial relationship between the plant and root fungus. These specialized fungi colonize plant roots and extend far into the soil resource. Mycorrhizal fungal filaments in the soil are truly extensions of root systems and more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the roots themselves. More than 90 percent of plant species form a symbiotic arrangement with the beneficial soil fungi (Mycorrhizal fungi).


What do they do for plants?

These Mycorrhizal fungi increase the surface absorbing area of roots 10 to 1,000 times, thereby greatly improving the ability of the plants to use the soil resource. Estimates of amounts of mycorrhizal filaments present in soil associated with plants are astonishing. Several miles of fungal filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil. But mycorrhizal fungi increase nutrient uptake not only by increasing the surface absorbing area of roots.

Mycorrhizal fungi release powerful enzymes into the soil that dissolve hard-to-capture nutrients, such as phosphorus, iron and other "tightly bound" soil nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non-mycorrhizal plants require high levels of fertility to maintain their health. Mycorrhizal fungi form an intricate web that captures and assimilates nutrients, conserving the nutrient capital in soils.


What other functions do Mycorrhizal fungi perform?

Mycorrhizal fungi are involved with a wide variety of activities that benefit plant establishment and growth. The same extensive network of fungal filaments important to nutrient uptake is also important in water uptake and storage. In non-irregated conditions, mycorrhizal plants are under far less drought stress compared to non-mycorrhizal plants. Suppression of diseases and pathogens are additional benefits for a mycorrhizal plant. Mycorrhizae fungi attack pathogen or disease organisms entering the root zone.

Mycorrhizal fungi also improve soil structure. Mycorrhizal filaments also produce humic compounds and organic "glues" (extra cellular polysaccharides) that bind soils into aggregates and improve soil porosity. Soil porosity and soil structure positively influence the growth of plants by promoting aeration, water movement into soil and root growth and distribution.

Many practical benefits can be expected from using Mycorrhizal fungi in common practices. These include improved survival, growth, more rooting, flowering and fruiting, protection against disease, improved soil structure and resistance to invasion by non-mycorrhizal or exotic plant species.


Can I fertilize instead?

Many synthetic fertilizer (chemical) regimens push top growth at the expense of root development, making plants vulnerable to stressful environments. Frequent, high levels of synthetic fertilizer produce an unbalanced and often unsustainable shoot-to-root ratio. Mycorrhizae on the other hand, feed your plants and stimulate root growth. Unlike Mycorrhizae, fertilizers cannot help prevent root disease, improve soil structure or promote other beneficial microbes. Synthetic fertilizers can lead to other side effects, such as deterioration of water quality, soil structure and excess soil salinity. The Mycorrhizal relationship improves feeder-root production, and a mycorrhizal plant can better utilize added fertilizer (preferably organic).

So what exactly is Hypertufa (which is pronounced hyper-toofa) Well Hypertufa is the name for an artificial stone. It is used to make a substance similar to the natural volcanic rock called Tufa. Tufa is used to make planting troughs, bird baths, and other things but has become a difficult rock to get.

Hypertufa started being used in the mid 19th century by mixing sand, peat, various volcanic aggregates and cement. It is much lighter than stone or concrete and can withstand cold winter temperatures and blazing summer heat equally well.

Since most Tufa deposits have been depleted the Hypertufa mixture is becoming more and more popular. This mixture also has the advantage that it can be molded and carved into any shape that you want.

1. Wearing rubber gloves and a dust mask to avoid breathing cement dust, mix 3 parts perlite, 3 parts peat moss, and 2 parts Portland cement in a plastic tub. If desired, add cement pigment for color. If making a large pot, add acrylic fibers or chicken wire for strength.

2. Add water to tub, a bit at a time, until the mixture has the consistency of moist cottage cheese.

3. Line Mold with a plastic bag for ease of removal.  Placing leaves or sticks around the outside of the mold before putting in the mix will give texture to your pot.  Spray inside of mold with cooking oil. Push a handful of wet hypertufa mixture firmly against the bottom of the mold. Repeat until you have made a bottom base that is approximately 1 inch thick. Push handfuls of wet hypertufa mixture firmly against the sides of container approximately 3/4 inches in thickness. Continue until rim of mold is reached. Press bottom and sides firmly to remove air pockets.

4. Create drainage hole by pushing finger or small dowell through the bottom of mold so that it penetrates the hypertufa mixture.

5. Cover with plastic bag, let dry for about 48 hours, depending on the weather.

6. Take off plastic bag and remove pot from mold (pot with be slightly wet). Handle with both hands to assure you don't break the pot.  Using a wire brush, stick or sandpaper, rough up the surface of the hypertufa for a more rustic appearance. Let sit for 2 to 3 weeks to dry completely.

In the mist of cold temperatures it is obviously not the best time to work in the garden.  It is important to keep off the soil if it is frosty, sticky or wet.   January, provided that the days are fair, can be an excellent time to clear the land, dig over the garden and condition the soil by add plenty of organic matter.  Frost can be be a great soil conditioner, especially for those like me, who have a high amount of clay.  It helps break up clods of earth and makes the ground easier to work. Depending on where you live and weather permitting January can be a time for planting cold crops.  February is a time to really get gardening again.  Let the weather guide you and test your ground with a soil thermometer  first thing in the morning.  When temperatures stay above 45 degrees for a week, it's time to get sowing.

Get together seeds and plan garden.
Winter-dig and apply compost, soft rock phoshate and greensand.
Cover soil with plastic to warm soil for earlier plantings.
Plant fruit trees, bushes and canes.
Plant kale, leeks, onions, broccoli, swiss chard, cabbabe, jerusalem artichokes, shallots.
Sow radishes, broad beans (fava), parsnips.
Apply fertilizer to asparagus beds.
Plant asparagus.
Feed fruit trees, grapes, strawberries, currants and rhubarb with a Phosphate.
Plant artichokes.
Prune Fruit trees.
Tidy and trim climbers.
Prepare grafting material.
Add leaf mould  into flower beds and vegetable gardens.
Spray dormant oil.

All work in the garden should be done on fine days.

Preparation
Garlic prefers sandy loam soil, but grows well in nearly any well-drained, slightly acidic (6-7pH), fertile soil.  The looser the soil, the larger your garlic will grow.  Prepare your garlic bed by turning under or tilling in 3-4" of fully broken down compost.  Make sure your soil has ample phosphorous.  Good choices of phosphorous are, Bone Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Gaia Green Glacial Rock Dust or Soft Rock Phosphate.  If your soil is high on the alkaline side you should add  Sulfur (read application rates carefully).  Avoid planting garlic in the same place you’ve previously grown garlic, onions or any other alliums for 3 years, because of the potential for spreading diseases like white rot.  Gophers love garlic; protect your beds with gopher wire or traps.
Planting & Growing
October is the optimum time for planting garlic to get the biggest, best garlic bulbs.  I like to plant my on the first full moon in October.  That is bio-dynamic growing.  When you get your garlic, it will be in bulb form, you will need to “crack” it apart into separate clove sections.  Once you have cracked the bulbs it is best to plant within 5-7 days before cloves begin to dry out.  A clove pre-planting dip will improve yield: in one gallon of water, place one half cup of kelp meal (to make a tea) and let sit for 24 hours, add two tablespoons of baking soda to kelp tea and 1 teaspoon of Humic Acids.  Mix well, add garlic cloves, and soak for one hour.  Removal of the clove skin is not necessary.  Plant your garlic cloves root end (blunt end) down.  Plant garlic cloves 4-6" apart.  Elephant garlic plant 8-9" apart.  Cover cloves with about 2" of soil.  3-4" in northern areas.  It’s a good idea to lightly mulch garlic with straw, leaves or compost, but in cold northern areas, mulch with up to 6".  Water well and then only when soil becomes dry. Remove mulch in the spring once frost danger is over.  Moisture is a critical factor in spring; watch your soil moisture levels and irrigate accordingly.  Garlic loves food and water, but it must have good drainage or it will rot.  In the spring, feed the garlic before bulbs begin to enlarge with a well balanced fertilizer and Kelp or side dress with Blood Meal or Alfalfa Meal once  Keep weeds away from your garlic at all times; you either have weeds or garlic, but not both!  If your garlic sends up a flower stalk in spring, snip it off, making the cut as close as feasible, or it might grow back.  If you let the garlic go to seed, you will end up harvesting smaller bulbs.
Harvesting & Storing
When the garlic leaves begin to turn yellow in the summer, stop irrigating for 2 weeks and then pull up the plant.  Immediately place plants in a shady place to cure.  Regardless of what you read elsewhere, do not leave your garlic in the sun because it will sunburn and rot.  A good way to cure garlic is to tie it in bunches or braid it (if it is a softneck garlic) and hang it in a dark place where it will receive good air circulation (keep leaves on).  Cure Elephant garlic for thirty days before eating it.  “Green” Elephant garlic is bitter, but it becomes milder with age.  Standard garlic takes less time to cure and becomes stronger tasting with age.  Hard neck varieties generally will only store for 6 months or less.  The optimum storage temperature is 50 degrees.  If some of your bulbs turn out onion-like (do not divide into cloves) you can eat them, but I do not like to use them for next years seed.
Saving Garlic For Next Years Planting
After harvesting and your garlic has cured, pick out the largest and best bulbs and put aside for next years planting (big cloves produce big bulbs).
            

Things to Plant:

Ornamental Kale and Cabbage
Plant pansies now  for winter color and the best pansies in the spring
Trees, shrubs and perennials
Greens: Lettuce, spinach, kale, pak choi, swiss chard, endive, collards, ect.  Cover with a row cover.
Broccoli, cabbage, kholrabi, cauliflower.  Cover with row cover (especially cauliflower).
Garlic, Shallots, Leeks and Onions.  Plant garlic on the first full moon of october.  October 23rd.
Fava Beans from seed.  These help "fix" the nitrogen in the soil and winter over very well
Plant bulbs.  Add bone meal into the hole.
Plant Strawberries.

Plant Horseradish root.

Chores:

Remove all garden debris to prevent disease and pests through the winter.
Gather leaves for leaf mold pile.
Cover leafy greens and brassica family with row cover.
Cover tender crops for extended season.
Harvest sweet potatoes towards the end of the month.
Keep crops watered.
Harvest the last of the pears and apples.
If you have had blight in pear trees, add azomite to the soil around tree.
Get beds ready in greenhouse for winter growing.
Take cuttings of tender perennials for next years growing.
Remove and discard old tomato vines.  I don't add them to the compost in case of disease.
Keep weeds cleared to make next years gardening easier.
This month or next month get soil ready for spring as you pull out this years crops.
Fertilize citrus trees.

      

Experienced gardeners know that the gardening season does not close at the end of summer. Instead, this is the time to plant fall vegetables and prepare for next season’s vegetable gardening activities.
Autumn is the season to clean up the summer vegetable garden area, enjoy the benefits of fall crops, prepare the ground for next year’s planting, and clean up your garden tools.

PLANTING A FALL GARDEN
At the peak of the season, when fresh produce is abundant, it is difficult to think about planting more crops. Late July through September is the time to extend the vegetable growing season by planting a fall garden.
This planting will add more vegetables to your supply and make use of the full growing season. The fall garden requires less time and labor because the soil was already worked up in the spring.  Just add some compost and a little fertilizer till or spade in and your ready to go.  Many vegetables, such as broccoli and cauliflower, are of higher quality when grown in the fall rather than during late spring to midsummer.
Some vegetables, such as kale and Swiss chard, develop a better flavor after frost.
To prepare for a fall garden, remove all previous crop residues before seeding fall vegetables.
As in spring planting, prepare the ground by adding 2-3 inches of compost and spading, or tilling the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches and incorporating 3 to 5 pounds of an organic all-purpose garden fertilizer per 100 square feet. Plant the seed according to directions on the seed packets. A good rule to follow is to plant seed two to four times its largest diameter.
Keep the soil evenly moist until the seedlings are up and growing; the upper 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil must be moist at all times to ensure germination. This is particularly important
because you will be seeding in midsummer, when the soil dries quickly.  If you set out plants you have grown yourself or purchased from a garden center, plant them at the same depth that they were growing in the container. Firm the soil around each plant
and water thoroughly.  A Kelp tea is great to water transplants with.

FROST PROTECTION
As fall approaches, frost presents a threat to tender vegetables in the garden. Although many cool-season vegetables such as root crops will survive a frost, other crops will not. It is usually best to harvest pumpkins, and winter squash before a frost. If harvested after a frost or freeze, they will not store well. One way to protect plants from frost
is to cover them with plastic sheeting, tarps, old blankets, boxes, or any other kind of close fitting cover. A cover is effective because it traps the radiated heat from the soil at night and raises the temperature enough around the plants to ward off a light frost. Cucumbers, beans, tomatoes, and squash are usually still productive in autumn and are worth trying to save for
a few extra harvests. If a hard freeze is predicted, pick any green but mature tomatoes remaining on the vines or pull the entire plant. Store the tomatoes in a cool, dry place at about 65o F. They will
continue to ripen for about two weeks. Squash, peppers, and eggplant should be picked and stored.
Some crops are not affected by frost or moderate freezes and can be left in the garden until the weather becomes quite cold. This group includes cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, Swiss chard, Chinese cabbage, and kale. Root crops, including beets, carrots, parsnips, and turnips, can be mulched with straw or leaves, left in the garden, and dug up as needed until
midwinter.

PREPARING THE GARDEN FOR NEXT YEAR
Fall is the best time to prepare the garden for the next season. While the weather is still good, a number of chores can be done to help get the garden ready for early spring planting. The main preparations are cleaning up garden refuse, sowing cover crops, if needed, and plowing the soil.  Many organisms overwinter in garden debris. Collecting the leaves, stems, and old fruit reduces the potential for disease and insect problems in the following year. The cleanup should be done following the first killing frost. It is safe to put the debris in a compost pile as long as the material does not include diseased plants. If you are uncertain that all diseased
plants have been eliminated, it is best to consider an alternative such as having it hauled away.  Some disease-causing organisms that survive composting include: corn smut; clubroot of
cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and other cole crops; Curly leaf of Tomatoes;  Verticillium wilt of tomato, pepper,  eggplant, and potato; and root-knot nematodes that infest quite a number of crops. Some of these organisms can overwinter in the soil indefinitely, even up to 15 years or more. Since rotation and sanitation have little effect on these diseases, the best control is to maintain
adequate fertility levels in the soil.  As many as 85 percent of disease-causing organisms are soil invaders. Plowing or tilling the
crop residues into the soil in the fall helps prevent the overwintering of many of these organisms. In addition to destroying their winter homes, this practice also helps control the insects that transmit certain diseases. Crop residues that are turned under improve soil tilth and structure and help make spring garden work easier.
While the past season’s garden is still fresh in your mind, make a map or garden plan. This will be helpful in planning next year’s garden and deciding upon a crop rotation program.  Crop rotation is an important measure that is used to control certain diseases. Since many
disease organisms only attack related plants in the same family, you can sometimes avoid disease problems by not planting the same kind of vegetable in the same location in the following year. Wherever possible, avoid planting any vegetables within each of the
following groups in the same location more than once every three years.

Fall is a also a good time to add organic matter to the soil to improve its tilth and fertility.
The most common sources of organic matter for garden soils are compost, manure, peat moss, rotted hay, straw, or a green manure crop.

CLEANING GARDEN TOOLS
The final gardening chore before winter’s arrival is the cleaning and winterizing of all garden equipment. Proper care will extend the life of your equipment, and gardening will be easier next spring with clean, sharp tools and easy-to-start engines. Clean your hand tools so that
they are free of dirt and rust. A putty knife and wire brush are good tools for this operation.
After the dirt and rust are removed, sharpen the tools and, if necessary, coat all exposed
metal surfaces with oil for protection against moisture. Store your tools in a dry, sheltered place. Wash and dry sprayers thoroughly. Be sure to drain all pipes, hoses, and valves.  When these chores are finished, it is time to sit back, relax, browse through garden books
and be ready to plant your vegetable garden when spring arrives next year.

Getting the Most from Your Fall Garden

High-density planting in double or triple rows can increase your per-square-foot return by 40 percent with broccoli, or up to 70 percent with cabbage. Use a zigzag planting pattern to fit more plants into less space while allowing 15-18 inches between plants.
Many varieties of broccoli are enthusiastic cut-and-come-again vegetables, too. After the main head has been harvested (taking only 3 inches or so of stem), varieties such as ‘Di Ciccio,’ and many others produce numerous tender side shoots. The harvest will continue until temperatures drop into the teens, which seriously damages broccoli plants. Covering your plants with a row cover will protect them.  In much of Zone 7 and 8, healthy broccoli plants will keep spewing out shoots for months.

Planting Schedule:

12 to 14 weeks before your first killing frost
* Direct-sow last plantings of fast-maturing, warm-season vegetables such as snap beans, cucumbers and summer squash(make sure you look at the date to maturity and make sure that it is no longer then 70 days and don’t delay). Also sow parsnips and rutabagas.
    * Start cabbage family seedlings indoors, and set out the seedlings as promptly as possible.
    * In climates with long autumns (Hurricane Valley and St. George areas), plant celery, bulb fennel and parsley in the fall.

10 to 12 weeks before your first killing frost
* Set out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi and cauliflower seedlings, along with celery, bulb fennel and parsley.
    * Direct-sow beets, cilantro, carrots, collards, leeks and scallions, along with lettuce and radishes. In some areas, even fast-maturing peas will do well in the fall garden.

8 to 10 weeks before your first killing frost
* Direct-sow arugula, Chinese cabbage, turnips, spinach, mustard, pac choi, tatsoi and other Asian greens.
    * Sow more lettuce and radishes, including daikons.

6 to 8 weeks before first killing frost
* Make a final sowing of lettuce beneath a protective tunnel or frame.

On or around your first killing frost date
 * Every fall garden should include garlic and shallots.  I always plant on the first full moon in October.


October:  Start to get your cold frame growing. Lettuces, spinach, and any greens do very well in cold frames.  Prep your soil as you would for your garden adding compost and fertilizer.

November: This is the best time to plant bulb onions and leeks.  Plant from onion and leek plants rather then bulbs, the size of your onions will be far bigger this way.  In very cold climates you will need to protect them with a row cover.

Companion planting is based around the idea that certain plants can benefit others when planted next to, or close to one another.

Companion planting exists to benefit certain plants by giving them pest control, naturally without the need to use chemicals, and in some cases they can give a higher crop yield .

Generally, companion planting is thought of as a small-scale gardening practice, but it can be applied on larger-scale operations. It has been proven that by having a beneficial crop in a nearby field that attracts certain insects away from a neighbouring field that has the main crop can prove very beneficial. This action is called trap cropping.

While companion planting has a long history, the benefits of companion planting have not always been understood. Traditional recommendations, for companion planting have been used by gardeners for a long time, but recent tests are proving scientifically, that they work.

Other ways that companion planting can be beneficial is to plant a crop like any Legumes, on an area where it will feed nitrogen into the soil, then it will not be necessary to use any chemical fertilizers for the next crop.

The African marigold, along with other plants, are  well known for companion planting, as they exude chemicals from their roots or aerial parts that suppress or repel pests and protect neighbouring plants.

Companion planting also exists in a physical way. For example, tall-growing, sun-loving plants may share space with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting in higher total yields from the land. This is called spatial interaction, and can also yield pest control benefits, for example, the presence of the prickly vines is said to discourage raccoons from ravaging sweet corn.

  Another type of companion planting is called Nurse cropping, where tall or dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable plants through shading or by providing a windbreak. For example, oats have long been used to help establish alfalfa and other forages by supplanting the more competitive weeds that would otherwise grow in their place. In many instances, nurse cropping is simply another form of physical-spatial interaction.

Beneficial habitats-sometimes called refugia-are another type of companion planting that has received a lot of attention in recent years. The benefit is derived when companion plants provide a good environment for beneficial insects, and other arthropods, especially those predatory and parasitic species that help to keep pest populations in check.

Companion Planting is enjoyable and rewarding.

Horseradish Planting and Growing                           
 Preparation
Horse radish is a  hardy perennial that grows in all zones except the hottest, low desert regions.  Where you plant it depends on whether you intend to treat it as a perennial and leave it in place for years, or as an annual that you will replant each year. Plant in full sun to partially shady location.  Horseradish prefers sandy loam, thrives on potassium and needs well drained soil.  
Planting & Growing
Prepare soil, working in plenty of organic matter and add potash (potassium) such as Greensand.  Plant 2 to 3 ft apart in fall or early spring.  Horseradish roots are cut on a slant at the bottom end.  If you harvest your own roots for planting a new crop, be sure to cut them the same way.   Work the soil to at least 8" deep.  Add a large handful of compost in the bottom of the hole.  Place root in hole at an angle, not straight up and down.  The root top should be 2" below the soil level. Firm soil in around the root.   Horseradish likes moist soil during the growing season.  If you plan to treat the plant as an annual and harvest the entire thing in fall, trim back lateral roots every six weeks beginning when the plant reaches 12" tall.  To do this carefully remove the soil down to the roots, snip off any exposed lateral roots and repack soil around the taproot (the main root).  This helps direct the energy into developing a much larger taproot.
Harvesting & Storing
Horseradish roots set out in the spring are harvestable size by fall, October or November.  Dig up the entire root.  Large main roots that are left in the soil till spring and harvested before new growth will have the hottest taste.  Horseradish stores best when it is harvested later in the fall after the root has become conditioned to the cold.  Allow to dry and keep in a cool place between 32-40 degrees with a high humidity.  Horseradish can be stored up to 5-6 months.

You don't need a plot of land to grow fresh vegetables. Many vegetables lend themselves well to container gardening. With some thought to selecting bush or dwarf varieties, almost any vegetable can be adapted to growing in a pot. Vegetables that take up little space, such as carrots, radishes and lettuce, or crops that bear fruits over a long period of time, such as tomatoes and peppers, are perfect for container vegetable gardens.

What you can grow in a container vegetable garden is limited only by the size of the container and your imagination. How about a Summer Salad container? Plant a tomato, a cucumber and some parsley or chives all in a large (24-30") container. They grow well together and have the same water and sun requirements. By late summer they might not be very pretty, but they'll keep producing into the fall. This makes a great housewarming present, too.

Containers and Pots for Vegetable Gardens
Selecting Containers: Containers for your vegetable gardens can be almost anything: flower pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, bushel baskets, wooden boxes, window planters, washtubs, or any number of other things.

Drainage: No matter what kind of container you choose for your vegetable garden, it should have holes at the base or in the bottom to permit drainage of excess water.

Color Considerations: You should be careful when using dark colored containers because they absorb heat which could possibly damage the plant roots. If you do use dark colored pots, try painting them a lighter color or shading just the container.

Size: The size of the container is important. For larger vegetables like tomatoes and eggplants, you should use a five gallon container for each plant. You can grow these plants in two gallon containers, however you need to give the plants considerably more attention.

Soil and Fertilizer
Use a good potting soil.  Look for potting soil that contains fertilizer already in it to jump start your veggies and herbs.  Do not use regular ‘dirt’.  It compacts to easily and generally has weed seeds.  Why not start right the first time.  If you are using a water soluble fertilizer you can feed your container garden once a day with a week solution or feed once a week full strength.  If you are using an organic powder type fertilizer feed every two weeks.  Container gardens are watered more often and the nutrients are washed out quicker, so they need more feedings.  

Watering
Pots and containers always require more frequent watering than plants in the ground. As the season progresses and your plants mature, their root system will expand and require even more water. Don't wait until you see the plants wilting. Check your containers daily to judge the need for water.  In our climate you may find that you will need to water two and even three times a day depending on wind, temperature, size of pot and where the container is located.

Soil Preparation
Where you plant your tomatoes is the first most important factor you do.  Tomatoes like their soil pH around 6.0-6.8(that’s the pH range at which most vegetables grow best).  A sunny location with well drained soil is best.  Afternoon shade is helpful in Southern Utah.  Amend soil with compost and peat moss (which will help lower pH levels) or coconut coir.  If your drainage is sluggish add vermiculite to your soil.  Before planting out your transplants, drench them with a kelp meal tea or kelp extract an hour before planting.  This helps retain soil around the roots, makes the root mass easier to handle and applies a quick feed of soluble fertilizer.  Kelp also helps with transplant shock.

Planting
It’s important to work some fertilizer into the soil at transplanting time to get your tomatoes off to a good start.  At the bottom of the hole or trench, add 2 tablespoons of an organic fertilizer.  Mix in with the soil, cover with about an inch earth.  The tomatoes roots should not come into direct contact with the fertilizer.  The tomatoes roots will grow down to absorb the nutrients gradually.  Some suggestions are: Rock n’ Chicken 2-4-2, Spring Mix 5-6-6, All Purpose 4-6-2, and Rose & Flower Mix 4-8-4 (Yes, it’s good for veggies too!).  I make my own mixture with 1 part Neem Seed Meal, 2 parts Fish Bone Meal and 2 parts Green Sand.    Planting on a cloudy day or late in the evening is best.  Bright sun can harm newly planted transplants.  Keep transplants watered.  New transplants do not have a roots system yet and will require a daily watering for the first week.  

Trench Planting                           
This method is best done in spring before it gets to hot.  Pinch off lower leaves of tomato transplant, lay plant down in trench horizontally, cover roots and entire length of the stem up to the leaves with two or three inches of soil and firm down.  Don’t try to bend the top of the plant up - just push a little pillow of soil underneath to support it.  Mother nature will see that it grows up in the right direction.


Straight Up-and-Down Planting
Leggy seedlings gain the most advantage from deep vertical planting once the weather gets hot and dry.  Because the roots are set in and grow more deeply, quicker than if trench planted.  Pinch off the lower leaves and plant to the depth (straight up-and-down) of the first bottom leaves.

Spacing
You can space plants as close as 12-18 inches if you are staking, caging or trellising them.  If you intend them to sprawl, give them more room, 36 inches.   

Staking
Staking advantages are: It saves space, It keeps vines and tomatoes off the ground with less rotting, you’ll get an earlier harvest, they are easier to pick and each tomato is larger.  Disadvantages to staking are: It takes more time and effort to train and prune, staked tomatoes dry out quicker, staked tomatoes are more susceptible to cracking and sunscald problems.  When staking a tomato plant, try to put the support on the prevailing downwind side so the plant will lean against the support when the wind is blowing hard.

Determinate vs. Indeterminate
Determinate varieties tend to set all their fruits within a relatively short period of time; Indeterminate varieties set a smaller number of fruits at one time, but do so over a longer period of time.  Growing both is a great way to have tomatoes for canning all at once and also to have them throughout the growing season.  Determinates are usually earlier and have a greater chance of escaping the curly top.

Pruning
Pruning means pinching off the shoots or “suckers” that sprout from the stem in the crotch right above a leaf branch.  If you let a sucker grow, it simply becomes another big stem with its own blossoms, fruits and suckers!  With staked or trellised tomatoes, pinch off the suckers and just keep the energy of the plant directed at one (sometimes two or three) main stems.  You will find when the weather warms up you will be pruning twice a week to keep up with it.  If you’re growing determinate varieties of tomatoes, go easy on pruning, if any at all.  Because the plants are smaller and don’t continue to set new fruits throughout the year.  Also be careful not to over prune here in Southern Utah.  The bright sun will cause sunscald.  

Mulching
Mulch is simply a covering over the soil that keeps moisture in, blocks weeds and protects low-growing tomatoes from resting on the ground and developing rot.  Mulches can raise or lower soil temperature, too.  If you use a woody material, such as bark or wood chips as a mulch, it’s a good idea to add some extra nitrogen fertilizer to the soil.  Otherwise the soil microorganisms, which need nitrogen for their own growth, will temporarily tie up the nitrogen your plants need.  You can use straw, pine needles, bagged mulch, or even compost.  I do not suggest using black plastic here.  Because it just adds extra heat to the soil.  Don’t put a heavy mulch to early in the season.  Wait until the ground is warmed up or you can delay the harvest a few weeks.  Mulching reduces the fluctuation of soil moisture and helps the crop enormously.

Feeding                       
Tomatoes are heavy feeders.  They need quite a big food supply over the season.  In most gardens, it’s a good idea to side-dress tomatoes.  That simply means placing fertilizer around the plants to give them extra nourishment through the growing season.  Stray away from high-nitrogen fertilizers.   You want something balanced with the first number being lower then the second and third (like 4-8-4) The fertilizers suggested in the beginning are great.  I like to fertilize every three weeks, 3-4 tablespoons per plant.  Start side-dressing when the first tomatoes have just formed.  Spread in a one inch -deep circular furrow five to six inches away from the stem .  Cover the fertilizer with one to two inches of soil.  Water in.

Watering
Tomatoes require an even supply of water through-out the growing season; an irregular water supply will cause your tomatoes to develop problems, such as blossom end rot.  Water thoroughly to encourage the tomato roots to feed water and nutrients deep in the soil.  With an extensive, deep root system, the plant will hold up better during dry spells.  Water only when needed.  Tomatoes like moisture, but soggy soil will prevent the roots from getting the air they need.  Water early in the day to cut down on evaporation losses and also to give your plants plenty of time to dry out.  Watering with a drip tape or soaker hose is the most efficient.  

Companions
Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper and marigold. One drawback with tomatoes and carrots: tomato plants can stunt the growth of your carrots but the carrots will still be of good flavor. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth.

Enemies
corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt: a disease of tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.